Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 8 to 10
Kuala Terengganu had been the kind of stop that makes a traveler reconsider the whole idea of coastal Malaysia —…
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Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 4 to 7
The transition from Ipoh to Penang isn’t gradual. One moment the Perak landscape is all limestone karsts and tin-mining towns,…
Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 1 to 3
The key turned in the ignition of the hired campervan at a lot just outside Kuala Lumpur’s city center, and…
Above the Canopy: Shooting Taman Negara’s Ancient Rainforest from a High Viewpoint at First Light
The Peninsular Malaysian rainforest is not quiet at 4:15 AM. It hums. Cicadas cycle through frequencies like a dial being…
Last Light at Kuala Sepetang
It arrives in waves, not all at once. Not the fireflies—those come later, after the sky has finished its performance….
Where the Light Shows Up Different
The rain had been falling for three hours when a taxi driver in George Town offered a piece of advice…
The Murtabak King’s Second Shift: Eating Through Kuala Lumpur’s Midnight Chapati Wars
The roti canai that matters most in Kuala Lumpur isn’t the one you eat at breakfast. It’s the one you’re…
The Afternoon Lim Kok Beng’s Mother Didn’t Want Me in Her Kitchen
The first refusal came through the screen door, polite but final. I’d been told by three different people at the…
I Ate Forty Bowls of Char Kway Teow in Ten Days. Here’s What Separates the Great From the Real.
The first thing that hit me was the carbon. Not the wispy, romanticized wok hei you read about in food…
The night the jungle pressed back
The man at the rental counter in Jerantut had a patient way of explaining things I hadn’t asked about. He…
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