The Hiss and Crackle of Jalan Alor
The first thing that hits me on Jalan Alor is not the smell of satay but the sound of it:…
Malaysia
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Ten Plates in Malaysia, and the Ones Worth Going Out of Your Way For
The first thing I ate in Malaysia was a mistake of geography rather than taste. I had landed in Kuala…
Two Woks and a Cigarette on Lebuh Carnarvon
The char kway teow man on Lebuh Carnarvon works with two woks and a cigarette going simultaneously, and the cigarette…
Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 8 to 10
Kuala Terengganu had been the kind of stop that makes a traveler reconsider the whole idea of coastal Malaysia —…
Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 4 to 7
The transition from Ipoh to Penang isn’t gradual. One moment the Perak landscape is all limestone karsts and tin-mining towns,…
Peninsular Malaysia Loop: Highlands, Islands & Rainforest: Day 1 to 3
The key turned in the ignition of the hired campervan at a lot just outside Kuala Lumpur’s city center, and…
Above the Canopy: Shooting Taman Negara’s Ancient Rainforest from a High Viewpoint at First Light
The Peninsular Malaysian rainforest is not quiet at 4:15 AM. It hums. Cicadas cycle through frequencies like a dial being…
Last Light at Kuala Sepetang
It arrives in waves, not all at once. Not the fireflies—those come later, after the sky has finished its performance….
Where the Light Shows Up Different
The rain had been falling for three hours when a taxi driver in George Town offered a piece of advice…
The Murtabak King’s Second Shift: Eating Through Kuala Lumpur’s Midnight Chapati Wars
The roti canai that matters most in Kuala Lumpur isn’t the one you eat at breakfast. It’s the one you’re…