The Temple Bell Rang at 4:30, and That Wasn’t the Hardest Part
The first sound I registered in Gyeongju wasn’t birdsong or chanting or the wooden clack of a moktak—it was the…
South Korea
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Stall 47’s Eel Ajumma Was Not Impressed by My Empty Plate
The woman at the eel stall didn’t smile when I sat down. She was in her sixties, maybe older, with…
One Bowl, One Table, One Street in Seoul
Late October, a Tuesday afternoon. I’d taken the wrong exit from Jongno 3-ga station and ended up in a tangle…