Alpine Peaks to Geothermal Valleys: A Two-Island Campervan Odyssey: Day 11 to 14
The Interislander terminal at Picton is a study in patience dressed up as procedure. Lines of painted arrows guide vehicles…
Alpine Peaks to Geothermal Valleys: A Two-Island Campervan Odyssey: Day 6 to 10
The kea arrived before the coffee did. I had pulled into a gravel turnout on the eastern side of Arthur’s…
Alpine Peaks to Geothermal Valleys: A Two-Island Campervan Odyssey: Day 1 to 5
The van smelled of diesel and someone else’s air freshener, a pine thing that would wear off by Invercargill if…
Alpine Glaciers to Geothermal Shores: A New Zealand Campervan Odyssey: Day 11 to 14
The smell reaches the windscreen before the town does. Sulphur, yes, but also something wetter and older than that, like…
Alpine Glaciers to Geothermal Shores: A New Zealand Campervan Odyssey: Day 6 to 10
Rain has been falling on the Fox Glacier valley for two days straight and the creek behind the holiday park…
Alpine Glaciers to Geothermal Shores: A New Zealand Campervan Odyssey: Day 1 to 5
The key fob for the campervan came attached to a laminated card showing a cartoon sheep giving a thumbs up….
The Hiss and Crackle of Jalan Alor
The first thing that hits me on Jalan Alor is not the smell of satay but the sound of it:…
Ten Plates in Malaysia, and the Ones Worth Going Out of Your Way For
The first thing I ate in Malaysia was a mistake of geography rather than taste. I had landed in Kuala…
Two Woks and a Cigarette on Lebuh Carnarvon
The char kway teow man on Lebuh Carnarvon works with two woks and a cigarette going simultaneously, and the cigarette…
The Spoon That Knows What It’s Doing
The first thing you notice about a bowl of bubur cha-cha in Singapore isn’t the sweetness, though that arrives soon…
