The chicken coop and the napkin
The trailhead wasn’t where the guesthouse owner said it would be. I stood at the end of a dirt track…
Thailand
Read More
The Night the Elephants Walked Through Us
The first thing you notice at the Khao Yai salt lick after dark is not the elephants. It’s the quiet….
Battling leeches and bamboo roots on the Doi Inthanon jungle trail to the hidden pagoda of Kew Mae Pan
The rain started about forty-five minutes in, which was almost exactly when I realized my boots were a size too…
The Wrong Island, and the Right One
The diesel fumes hit first, before any view of the water. That’s the smell of a real ferry terminal, not…
The hour before the long-tail boats start
The canal was the colour of a used tea bag and the smell was something between river silt and the…
The handwritten sign on corrugated metal
The first time I tried eating khao soi with my hands, I ended up with broth dripping from both wrists,…
The Same River, a Different Taste
I was on my third prawn before I realized I hadn’t looked at the water once. The floating market at…
The blue apron was already gone
I found the first one by accident, which is how most good things happen in Bangkok’s old town if you…
The oil was too hot, and I knew it before the first strand of egg noodle hit the surface
The oil was too hot, and I knew it before the first strand of egg noodle hit the surface. But…