Chan’s First Circuit
The sheet-steel carts emerged from the kitchen doors of these estates around eleven in the morning, pushed by women in…
East Asia
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Following the Salt Men Across Lantau’s Hidden Ridges
The ferry from Central to Mui Wo leaves every hour, but the one we wanted was the 7:15 PM sailing…
Before the concrete takes the shoreline
The woman at the ferry counter in Central Pier 4 looked at us like we’d asked for directions to a…
What the Plants Knew Before We Did
The balcony faced west, which meant by three in the afternoon the light came in at an angle that turned…
The water glowed when we dipped our paddles in — so we kept paddling
The sea caves along the eastern edge of Sai Kung don’t announce themselves on any map in a way that…
The last alley with steam still rising
The alley isn’t on any of the food maps they hand out at the MTR station, and it doesn’t need…
Ap Liu Street After Midnight: What the Camera Hype Doesn’t Tell You
The first thing you notice at one in the morning on Ap Liu Street is how the fluorescent lights don’t…
The Hand-Painted Dish That Cost a Mango and a Folding Knife
The ferry from Central to Yung Shue Wan is inexpensive — twenty-five Hong Kong dollars, the fare hasn’t changed much…
The Stall That Knew Which Pieces Not to Sell
The first thing you notice in the alley behind Shanghai Street is not the jade. It’s the absence of light….
The Left Foot Is Slightly Wider
You find it tucked away not on the tourist maps but in the quiet, tree-lined stretch of Kadoorie Avenue on…