The water glowed when we dipped our paddles in — so we kept paddling
The sea caves along the eastern edge of Sai Kung don’t announce themselves on any map in a way that…
Read More
The last alley with steam still rising
The alley isn’t on any of the food maps they hand out at the MTR station, and it doesn’t need…
Ap Liu Street After Midnight: What the Camera Hype Doesn’t Tell You
The first thing you notice at one in the morning on Ap Liu Street is how the fluorescent lights don’t…
The Hand-Painted Dish That Cost a Mango and a Folding Knife
The ferry from Central to Yung Shue Wan is inexpensive — twenty-five Hong Kong dollars, the fare hasn’t changed much…
The Stall That Knew Which Pieces Not to Sell
The first thing you notice in the alley behind Shanghai Street is not the jade. It’s the absence of light….
The Left Foot Is Slightly Wider
You find it tucked away not on the tourist maps but in the quiet, tree-lined stretch of Kadoorie Avenue on…
Tracking Down Vintage Hong Kong Postcards in Sham Shui Po’s Paper Wholesale Alleys
There’s a particular kind of thrill that comes from holding a piece of paper that’s older than you are, especially…
Where Neon Goes to Die, and What It Leaves Behind
The first thing we noticed about the sign shop on Kweilin Street was not the neon itself but the smell….
Where the Bamboo Still Holds
The dried-seafood streets of Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district smell exactly the way you’d expect something that’s been dehydrating for…
The gully that wasn’t on any map
The trailhead on South Lantau Road looks like a drainage ditch. That’s the first thing that throws visitors off —…